School Uniforms between Belonging and Self-Expression

Irena Dimova-Gencheva

University “Prof. Dr. Asen Zlatarov” – Burgas (Bulgaria)

Georgi Genchev

PGMEE – Burgas (Bulgaria)

https://doi.org/10.53656/str2026-1-4-uni

Abstract. This article explores the topic of school uniforms, situating the issue within the Bulgarian educational context, particularly in relation to the structure of the national education system and the Law on School and Preschool Education. Central to the study is the theoretical question of individuality and the extent to which wearing a school uniform affects students’ ability to express themselves. We seek to examine how the standardization of attire within the school setting intersects with students’ need for belonging and contributes to the formation of a “sense of continuity.” The theoretical framework is supported by a survey conducted among students, with questions designed to reflect the research objectives. The survey emphasizes the concept of continuity as expressed through the shared uniform, which carries the emblematic features of the respective educational institution.

Keywords: school uniforms; Bulgarian schools; students; belonging; self-expression; survey

 

Introduction

The topic of school uniforms in Bulgaria has been insufficiently researched. Even media interest in it is sporadic. The reason for this may be found in the non-mandatory nature of school uniforms at the national level. The moderate educational centralization in the Bulgarian context means that each educational institution decides independently whether to introduce a mandatory dress code for its students. As a result, a student wearing a uniform is more of an exception than a rule. On the other hand, wearing a uniform is most often associated with discipline and other behavioral characteristics. At the same time, school uniforms can also be viewed as an important element in the process of identity formation among adolescents. In the present text, we will attempt to examine the topic from a sociological perspective. The theoretical framework will be supported by the results of a survey conducted among students.

 

School Uniforms Between the Collective and the Individual

Designation of clothing has long since gone beyond its primary protective function (Harms, 1938, pp. 239–240). Today, in addition to indicating age, gender, social status, and religious or cultural affiliation, clothing primarily plays a decorative role. Wearing a particular type of clothing creates a style that individualizes a person. However, clothing may indicate not only an individual aesthetic perception but also collective understandings. In any case, whether individualized or shared, it becomes a means of self-expression. Its symbolic value is so important that its communicative function becomes dominant. Through our clothing, we communicate with others in a manner similar to speech and the effects it produces. The phrase “Don’t judge a book by its cover” is not accidental. Through our choice of clothing, we can predispose our interlocutors positively or, conversely, awaken prejudiced attitudes in them. The degree to which we communicate through clothing can be compared to the influence our speech has on others. By dressing, we create a certain style that reflects us in multiple aspects and evolves with our age and experience. It can be said that this style alludes to our inner growth as individuals. Therefore, there are stages in life that are decisive for our style and for the way we perceive the very ritual of dressing.

The way of dressing is an integrating factor in personality development during adolescence. The period between the ages of 12 and 19 is key in the formation of individual identity. This process is dynamic, accompanied by self-doubt and over-identification (Lazarova, 2022, p. 28). In his theory of conflicts, Erik Erikson defines this period as a time of searching for faith in others, during which “the ideological potential of society speaks most clearly to the adolescent” (Erikson, 1996, pp. 172–173). Whether adolescents accept this message or oppose it depends both on their inner world and on the means the external world uses to reach them.

As the most turbulent period of value and social development, adolescence is directly linked to the development of an individual’s clothing style. At the same time, this stage is marked by school education. Participation in the educational system automatically stratifies the individual socially. The role of student assigns certain responsibilities, including those related to clothing.

In Bulgaria, as already noted, each school independently decides whether to require students to wear uniforms¹. Where clothing standardization is introduced, it may be either complete or partial, i.e. affecting the entire appearance or only certain elements. The placement of the school logo on uniforms is also not arbitrary. The discourse surrounding school uniforms is constantly revived and subdued. The reason for the polarized views regarding their use lies in their dual functionality. On the one hand, they indicate belonging to a specific group and represent an attempt at social equality; on the other hand, the otherwise moral aspiration toward uniformity leads to limitations on self-expression. Thus, the central question becomes that of the collective and the individual, the personal. In Bulgaria, the cost and comfort of school uniforms are more often questioned. A more in-depth sociological examination is observed in countries where uniforms are mandatory. At the center of the discussion lies the question of what is more important - the individual or their belonging to a particular group. Here, we will attempt to present both positions by placing them in a kind of dialogue, since we believe that only through such dialogue can a middle ground be found. Ultimately, the solution may lie in striving for a balance or fusion between the individual and the collective in this case.

 

The need for belonging

The entire educational process is based on the idea of developing social competencies. These include communication skills and a sense of belonging. Thus, the basis of “learning” is the mastery of “cultural codes” (Neminska, 2014, p. 47), which the student must be able to rely on in order to socialize successfully. The development of social skills inevitably includes the choice of belonging to a certain group. In the school context, these formations hierarchically begin from the educational institution itself. The student’s belonging to a certain school defines him personally, especially during adolescence. During this stage of the individual’s development, the personality is constructed and the climate in which this process takes place is of fundamental importance for this construction. The degree of mastery of social competencies is determined by the success of adaptation to the environment. While communication with other students and teachers is key to its implementation, there are also prerequisites that are created by the institution itself to which the student belongs.

One of the main ideas with which the school accepts its students is the inheritance of historical memory. The student becomes a receiver of knowledge about the history and traditions of the educational institution of which he is a part. This inheritance is associated with the active participation of the students not only in the learning process, but also in updating the memory of the educational institution. This updating can be carried out by celebrating the school's anniversaries and other cultural events that promote it, but also through the students' clothing. The uniform is a sign of both belonging to a specific educational institution and adapting the traditions that it preserves. Interestingly, in discussions about school uniforms, the possible desired consequences of their introduction are more often emphasized, such as improving the behavior of students or increasing their success. The main thing, however, remains the creation of a sense of belonging to a certain social group. However, the unification of students' clothing is also viewed from its negative aspects, for example, in the light of it being a subjugating means that limits freedom of self-expression.

 

The need for self-expression

Attempts to change Bulgarian education in recent decades stem mainly from the idea of putting the child’s individuality first (Makaveeva, 2016, p. 23). The emphasis is shifting from the traditional view of the leading role of the taught material to its adaptation to the individual personality characteristics of the learner. However, wearing a school uniform at first glance contradicts this expediency related to the individuality of students. At the same time, it can be seen as a means of personal development that does not limit self-expression.

Adolescence is the first stage of an individual’s life in which he becomes aware of himself and the way he is perceived by others. The unification of clothing according to the standards of a certain microenvironment, such as school, contributes to the construction of a collective identity. The personal idea of individuality in this case remains suppressed. Yet individual and collective identity are inextricably linked, the former being “a network combination of qualities generated by the individual’s participation in a large number of communities and societies” (Tsvetanova - Tsaneva, 2015, p. 282). The influence of the environment on the adolescent is key to his -growth and self-finding; it, as Erikson defines it, “becomes significant for the ego, since without the ideological simplification of the universe the adolescent ego cannot organize experience according to its specific capabilities and ever-expanding inclusion” (Erikson, 1996, p. 48). This is a stage during which he seeks inspiration from others in order to build the model of his own life. In other words, the adolescent needs the exemplarity of others in whom he can find “deserving “ways of life” (Erikson, 1996, p. 173). At the same time, he is also inclined to resist these external influences if he feels “that the environment is trying to deprive him too drastically of all forms of expression ” (Erikson, 1996, p. 173). Key here is Erikson’s understanding that individual style is one of the ways in which the individual copes with “the remains of negative identity” (Erikson, 1996, p. 173). In other words, taking away the freedom to express oneself through clothes can hinder the adolescent in his own coping with the past and the problems of his growth up to this point. Therefore, the school uniform must be presented to the student in the context of the opportunity he retains for “creating” his identity, which, on the other hand, “is never “established” as an “achievement” in the form of personal armor or something static and unchangeable (Erikson, 1996, p. 44). He should not be left with the impression that this potential for self-expression has been taken away from him by the imposed unification through clothing. I believe that whether wearing a school uniform will affect the individual personality depends directly on the individual worldview, which is a complex of past experiences and current searches. In order to eliminate the possibility that the general dress code will have negative consequences for the student, the clothing must be presented to him in the light of the need for it, of the historical past of the school, of which it is the fruit, and of the way in which it continues the line of its traditions established over decades.

 

Clothing from within

The garment itself, when it has no bearer in the form of a person, is a language, while its specific use is speech. When it is worn, the code turns into an event. This association continues the way Roland Barthes employs Saussure’s conceptual opposition (Barthes, 2005, p. 33). It seems applicable to us in the dichotomy between the unworn and the worn garment as well. Once worn, it acquires additional connotations and becomes individualized in the likeness of its wearer. Therefore, we will adopt Barthes’s distinction between garment and clothing (Barthes, 2005, p. 34): the garment is the “structural institutional form of the costume,” whereas clothing is the “actualized, worn, individual form.”

Clothing, in itself, is transformed when it is described, as in our case. The burden of the “real garment” with “practical purposes (protection, modesty, adornment)” disappears in its representation (Barthes, 2005, p. 21). The sociological dimension of clothing here merges with the semiological one, which is oriented toward the “set of collective representations” (Barthes, 2005, p. 23). The garment is presented emphatically; the analysis highlights certain of its elements. As Roland Barthes writes, commentary is an “explicitly noted” observation (Barthes, 2005, p. 29, italics - R.B.). In a similar way, by isolating specific details of clothing, we will attempt to “recharge the message contained within them” (Barthes, 2005, p. 30).

 

In search of environment

“[…] a powerful wave of memory swept the world and everywhere tied very closely devotion to the past - real or imagined - with a sense of belonging, collective consciousness and individual self-awareness, memory and identity.”

(Nora, 2004, p. 19)

 

In his famous text “The Global Rise of Memory”, Pierre Nora starts from the change observed in the modern world in the traditional relationship of humanity and its structures with the past. The result of this, he sees in the renewed attachment to “heritage” and the strengthening of the sensitivity to preservation (Nora, 2004, p. 19). This attempt of ours to find a middle ground between the benefits and negatives of school uniforms will also allude to these two processes.

The environment influences the individuals participating in it, but it can also be changed by them. We believe that this is a fundamental point that shall be taken into account in the discourse on school uniforms. Through clothing, which bears signs recognizable to the institution, the student takes the first step in his cultural belonging. His awareness of a shared worldview changes as he grows up. The ways of expressing belonging also change. Wearing a school uniform, even if it is not the result of his own choice, presupposes a subsequent awareness of the wearer's attitude towards the traditions of the educational institution that imposes it. At a stage in which the adolescent has not yet initiated a cultural connection, he is presented with a process of its construction. In this way, he can understand and make sense of his situational subjectivity. It, on the other hand, is a consequence of the human need for belonging and connectedness (Popova, 2011, p. 29). “The identification of individuals with the values and beliefs of a given cultural group” (Popova, 2011, p. 31) is key to the construction of the individual’s social identity. Only the confrontation with the need for identification can lead to the need for deeper insight into the subject of this recognition. In this sense, the school uniform can be more than a means of imposing order and discipline, more than an attempt at social equalization - it can be an occasion for cultural awareness and awakening the need for historical memory. Through it, a “consciousness of continuity” can be cultivated (Kundera, 2014).

 

Poll results

To the theoretical consideration of school uniforms, we decided to conduct a survey. The main focuses in it were the same ones that we have already considered above in our text - the attitude of the uniform to individuality and its perception as a component of the inheritance of the traditions of the educational institution. It was conducted in the 8th, 9th, 10th and 11th grades of the Vocational High School of Mechano-Electrical Engineering and Electronics in Burgas².

The total number of respondents was 177, of which 47.5% were 9th grade students, 39% were 8th grade students, 9.6% were 11th grade students and 3.4% were 10th grade students. School uniforms have currently been introduced in schools, with only the upper part of the uniform being mandatory. In fact, there is a lack of consensus among respondents regarding the components of the uniform that are mandatory. 58.8% believe that the school uniform is in two parts, 32.8% note that there is only the upper part. 8.5% of respondents indicate that the uniform is in two parts, but only the upper part can be worn. Regarding the emotions that wearing school uniform evokes in students, the most - 24.3% - state that they feel discomfort, followed by 17.3% who note dissatisfaction. 14.5% still indicate pride, and 13.9% - satisfaction. These percentages also overlap with those reported in the answers to the question "Do you wear the school uniform willingly?". 69.3% of all respondents do not feel the desire to wear the school uniform, with slightly more than half - 57.1% - noting that it is uncomfortable for them. It turns out that the design of the uniform is not key to the desire to wear it - 47.2% would not wear it even if its appearance was different. Students are almost unanimous regarding the more sporty nature of the garment - only 22 people prefer it to be more formal. The majority of respondents believe that teachers should also wear uniforms (65.5%), although this would not stimulate them to wear it too (52%).

An important component of the questions asked is the one related to the emblem depicted on the uniforms. As many as 72.9% of the students indicated that they know what it symbolizes. Of those who do not know, a large part - 53.8% - do not want to learn. 66.7% do not want the school emblem to be depicted on the uniforms.

 

Conclusion

From the results obtained, it can be concluded that students do not associate the school uniform with the idea of continuity of certain traditions carried by the educational institution to which they belong. They view the imposed clothing as a formality that does not require further consideration. This prominent position speaks of the urgent need for students to “become aware” of the clothing. We believe that only the theoretical presentation of the decision to introduce uniforms in a given school would change the attitude of students towards them. Such a presentation of the clothing, on the other hand, should occur along the thematic lines we have set above, affecting individuality and belonging.

 

Acknowledgements

We would like to express our gratitude to Director Roza Zheleva for her assistance in conducting the survey.

 

 

NOTES

1. The Preschool and School Education Act requires all students to wear decent clothing, for which the student may be subject to sanctions if he does not comply (Section III, Art. 199, par. 3). At the same time, the requirement for a uniform is determined by the specific educational institution, which is legally defined in Section I, Art. 28, par. 1, para. 4 as follows: “(schools – author’s remark) determine their own symbols and rituals in accordance with the principles of national identity and culture, as well as their own uniform clothing and other distinctive signs.”
2. The survey was conducted in June 2025.

 

ЛИТЕРАТУРА

Барт, Р. (2005). Системата на модата. Агата-А. ISBN 9545400420.

Ериксън, Е. (1996). Идентичност, младост и криза. Наука и изкуство. ISBN 9789543204434.

Кундера, М. (2014). Завесата: Есе в 7 части. Колибри. ISBN 9786191504633.

Лазарова, П. (2022). Психология на развитието (Възрастова психология). Университетско издателство „Епископ Константин Преславски“. ISBN 978-619-201-550-3.

Макавеева, Кр. (2016). Иновационни методи на обучение при учебния предмет „Обща теория на счетоводната отчетност“. Vocational Education, 18(1), 23 – 29. ISSN 1314–555X.

Неминска, Р. (2014). Аксиомата на толерантността. Фондация „Буквите“. ISBN 9786191540860.

Нора, П. (2004). Световният възход на паметта. В Около Пиер Нора. Места на памет и конструиране на настоящето (с. 19 – 35). Дом на науките за човека и обществото. ISBN 9789549567184.

Понти, М. (2014). Завесата: Есе в 7 части. Колибри. ISBN 9786191504633.

Попова, Ю. (2011). Концептуални основи на културната идентичност, приложими към българо-румънския трансграничен регион край река Дунав. Научни трудове на Русенския университет, 50(5.2), 27 – 33. ISSN 1311–3321.

Цветанова-Цанева, Цв. (2015). Понятието идентичност – обзорен преглед на основните становища. Научни трудове на Русенския университет, 54(5.2), 278 – 284. ISSN 1311–3321.

Harms, E. (1938). The psychology of clothes. American Journal of Sociology, 44(2), 239 – 250. ISSN 0002-9602.

 

 

 

REFERENCES

Harms, E. (1938). The psychology of clothes. American Journal of Sociology, 44(2), 239 – 250. ISSN 0002-9602.

Bart, R. (2005). Sistemata na modata. Agata-A. ISBN 9545400420. [in Bulgarian]

Eriksan, E. (1996). Identichnost, mladost i kriza. Nauka i izkustvo. ISBN 9789543204434. [in Bulgarian].

Kundera, M. (2014). Zavesata: Ese v 7 chasti. Kolibri. ISBN 9786191504633. [in Bulgarian]

Lazarova, P. (2022). Psihologiya na razvitieto (Vazrastova psihologiya). Universitetsko izdatelstvo „Episkop Konstantin Preslavski“. ISBN 978-619-201-550-3. [in Bulgarian].

Makaveeva, Kr. (2016). Inovatsionni metodi na obuchenie pri uchebniya predmet „obshta teoriya na schetovodnata otchetnost“. Profesionalno obrazovanie, 18(1), 23 – 29. ISSN 1314–555X. [in Bulgarian].

Neminska, R. (2014). Aksiomata na tolerantnostta. Fondatsiya Bukvite. ISBN 9786191540860. [in Bulgarian].

Nora, P. (2004). Svetovniyat vazhod na pametta. In Okolo Pier Nora. Mesta na pamet i konstruirane na nastoyashteto (pp. 19 – 35). Dom na naukite za choveka i obshtestvoto. ISBN 9789549567184. [in Bulgarian].

Ponti, M. (2014). Zavesata: Ese v 7 chasti. Kolibri. ISBN 9786191504633. [in Bulgarian].

Popova, Yu. (2011). Kontseptualni osnovi na kulturnata identichnost, prilozhimi kam balgaro-rumanskiya transgranichen region kray reka Dunav. Nauchni trudove na Rusenskiya universitet, 50(5.2), 27 – 33. ISSN 1311–3321. [in Bulgarian].

Tsvetanova-Tsaneva, Tsv. (2015). Ponyatieto identichnost – obzoren pregled na osnovnite stanovishta. Nauchni trudove na Rusenskiya universitet, 54(5.2), 278 – 284. ISSN 1311–3321. [in Bulgarian].

 

SCHOOL UNIFORMS BETWEEN BELONGING AND SELF-EXPRESSION

Abstract. This article explores the topic of school uniforms, situating the issue within the Bulgarian educational context, particularly in relation to the structure of the national education system and the Law on School and Preschool Education. Central to the study is the theoretical question of individuality and the extent to which wearing a school uniform affects students’ ability to express themselves. We seek to examine how the standardization of attire within the school setting intersects with students’ need for belonging and contributes to the formation of a „sense of continuity.“ The theoretical framework is supported by a survey conducted among students, with questions designed to reflect the research objectives. The survey emphasizes the concept of continuity as expressed through the shared uniform, which carries the emblematic features of the respective educational institution.

Keywords: school uniforms; Bulgarian schools; students; belonging; self-expression; survey

 

 

Dr. Irena Dimova-Gencheva, Assist. Prof.

ORCID iD: 0000-0002-5750-1741

WoS ResearcherID: AAD-5270-2020

Faculty of Social Sciences

University “Prof. Dr. Asen Zlatarov”

1, Prof. Yakimov Blvd.

8010 Burgas, Bulgaria

E-mail: irdimova@yahoo.com

 

Georgi Genchev

Vocational High School of Mechano-Electrical Engineering and Electronics

9, Stefan Stambolov Blvd.

8001 Burgas, Bulgaria

E-mail: genchev92@gmail.com

>> Download the article as a PDF file <<